Two of Wands

Autumn League Pullover

Collaborations, Free PatternsAlexandra Tavel11 Comments

Sometimes there are "to-makes" that sit on my agenda for just months, and others spend a few years living on my endless list of dream knits. While I'm no newbie to sweaters, the top-down raglan has been an ongoing enigma that I've spent years fearing. I love math, problem solving, and puzzles, so usually tackling a new idea is a welcome challenge, but something about this construction has always made me instantly think "next time." Well, I finally faced the beast and designed my first raglan sweater, and I have to say I might be hooked. Read below to learn more about the inspiration behind this beauty and discover the free pattern, purchase the printable ad-free PDF here, or scoop up the yarn kit from Lion Brand Yarn here.

Drop-sleeve sweaters will always be a go-to and an easy-to-size, beginner friendly shape, but raglan sleeves give a sweater such a professional look and somehow make it look so "real." The construction is actually quite simple and while I decided to complicate things a bit with some special neck shaping and details, the Autumn League Sweater is a fairly easy knit with a classic silhouette that makes this a timeless staple for your wardrobe. 

The right project always needs the right yarn, and I think it wasn't until Lion Brand released their new LB Collection Cotton Jeans that I decided this design was a must-make. This yarn is the more upscale, luxe version of their Jeans yarn (of which I'm a huge fan!) and it just screamed timeless heritage-inspired staple. I knew this sweater that had been haunting me needed to see the light when I felt this wonderful fiber. 

Most of the time when I set out to design a new piece, I start with a feeling. Where would I wear this thing and how would I feel in it? Sometimes I can literally feel the air and smell the surroundings when I imagine myself in this place. This yarn has a vintage quality to it that instantly made me think of the perfect broken-in sweatshirt and that first crisp evening as fall approaches when you need an extra layer as the sun goes down. When I transport myself to this place in time I can even smell the leftover perfume on the neck and cuffs from the last time I wore the sweatshirt and it fills me with a sense of comfort and nostalgia. That is the exact feeling I set out to capture with the Autumn League Pullover.

With subtle detailing like the side slits, doubled ribbed neckband, and v-insert neck triangle, this otherwise basic pullover has personality and sophistication that sets it apart. Meant to be well-loved and well-worn, this sweater has the perfect broken-in relaxed fit and deep raglans that allow for chic comfort and wearable ease.

This is an intermediate level knitting pattern and the techniques involved are the knit stitch, purl stitch, k2tog, ssk, m1r, m1l, traveling stitches, working flat and in the round, picking up and knitting stitches, and working a tubular bind off.

MATERIALS:

5 (7, 8) skeins Lion Brand LB Collection Cotton Jeans in Grey Fade 
Size US 6 (4mm) circular knitting needles, 16”/40cm long
Size US 6 (4mm) circular knitting needles, 24”/60cm long
Size US 7 (4.5mm) circular knitting needles, 24”/60cm long
Size US 7 (4.5mm) circular knitting needles, 40”/100cm long
Stitch markers or scrap yarn
Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Tapestry needle

FINISHED SIZE:

Width: 20”/51cm (XS/S), 24”/61cm (M/L), 28”/71cm (XL/XXL)
Bust: 40"/102cm (XS/S), 48"/122cm (M/L), 56"/142cm (XL/XXL)
Length: 24”/61cm (XS/S), 25”/64cm (M/L), 26”/66cm (XL/XXL)
Sleeve Length: 18”/46cm (XS/S), 18.5”/47cm (M/L), 19”/48cm (XL/XXL)
*sweater shown in size XS/S

GAUGE:

19 sts + 24 rows = 4”/10cm in stockinette

ABBREVIATIONS:

*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms

CO – cast on
K – knit
K2tog – knit 2 together
LT – left twist
M1l – make 1 left
M1r – make 1 right
P – purl
Pm – place marker
Rep – repeat
RS – right side
RT – right twist
Sm – slip marker
SSK – slip, slip, knit
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side

STITCH EXPLANATION:

Left Twist (LT): Worked at traveling stitch; slip two stitches, one at a time, knitwise to right needle, slip these stitches purlwise back to the left needle, knit through the back loop of the second stitch but do not remove from the left needle, then knit the two stitches together through the back loop and remove them from the left needle.

Right Twist (RT): Worked one stitch before traveling stitch; knit two stitches together but do not remove from the left needle, then knit into just the first stitch and remove both stitches from the left needle.

Note: Sweater is worked from the top down with raglan shaping. Beginning in back and forth rows to allow for front neck shaping, work is then joined and worked in the round to the underarms, then separated again so that front, back, and sleeves are worked flat in back and forth rows. Side and sleeve seams allow for structure and help keep the sweater in shape.

With 24”/60cm US 7 needles, CO 66 (70, 74) sts.

Set up row: P 1, pm, P 2, pm, P 12 (13, 14), pm, P 2, pm, P 32 (34, 36), pm, P 2, pm, P 12 (13, 14), pm, P 2, pm, P 1.

Row 1 (RS): K 1, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, *K to next marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * to last st, K 1. (74, 78, 82 sts)

Row 2: P, slipping all markers.

Row 3: K 1, m1r, K 1, *m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, K to next marker, rep from * to last 2 markers, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, K 1, m1l, K 1. (84, 88, 92 sts)

Row 4: P, slipping all markers.

Row 5: K 1, m1r, K to marker, *m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, K to next marker, rep from * to last 2 markers, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, K to last st, m1l, K 1. (94, 98, 102 sts)

Row 6: P, slipping all markers.

Rows 7-16: Rep rows 5 and 6. (144, 148, 152 sts)

Cast on for front neckline and join for working in the round:

Row 17: K 1, m1r, K to marker, *m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, K to next marker, rep from * to last 2 markers, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, K to last st, m1l, K 1, CO 14 (16, 18). Do not turn. With front of fabric facing you, join for working in the round and pm for beginning of round. Change to 40”/100cm US 7mm circular needles if/when necessary. (168, 174, 180 sts)

Round 18 and all even rounds: K, slipping all markers.

Round 19: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 13 (14, 15) sts, LT, K 8, RT, K 1 (2, 3). (176, 182, 188 sts)

Round 21: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 12 (13, 14) sts, LT, K 6, RT, K 2 (3, 4). (184, 190, 196 sts)

Round 23: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 11 (12, 13) sts, LT, K 4, RT, K 3 (4, 5). (192, 198, 204 sts)

Round 25: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 10 (11, 12) sts, LT, K 2, RT, K 4 (5, 6). (200, 206, 212 sts)

Round 27: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 9 (10, 11) sts, LT, RT, K 5 (6, 7). (208, 214, 220 sts)

Size XS/S only:

Round 29: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to last 8 sts, RT, K 6. (212 sts)

Round 31: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 9 sts, RT, LT, K 5. (220 sts)

Round 33: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to last 10 sts, RT, K 2, LT, K 4. (224 sts)

Round 35: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 5 sts, LT, K 3. (232 sts)

Round 37: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to last 4 sts, LT, K 2. (236 sts)

Round 39: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to end of round. (244 sts)

Round 41: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to end of round. (248 sts)

Rounds 43 and 45: Rep rounds 39 and 41. (260 sts)

Round 47: Rep round 39. (268 sts)

Round 49: K, slipping all markers.

Round 51: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to end of round. (276 sts)

Rounds 53 and 55: Rep rounds 49 and 51. (284 sts)

Rep round 49 until work measures 10”/25cm from cast on edge of back neck.

Size M/L only:

Round 29: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 9 sts, RT, K 7. (222 sts)

Round 31: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to last 10 sts, RT, LT, K 6. (226 sts)

Round 33: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 11 sts, RT, K 2, LT, K 5. (234 sts)

Round 35: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to last 6 sts, LT, K 4. (238 sts)

Round 37: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 5 sts, LT, K 3. (246 sts)

Round 39: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to end of round. (250 sts)

Round 41: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to end of round. (258 sts)

Rounds 43-61: Rep rounds 39 and 41. (318 sts)

Round 63: K, slipping all markers.

Round 65: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to end of round. (326)

Rounds 67 and 69: Rep rounds 63 and 65. (334 sts)

Rep round 63 until work measures 12”/30cm from cast on edge of back neck.

Size XL/XXL only:

Round 29: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 10 sts, RT, K 8. (228 sts)

Round 31: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 11 sts, RT, LT, K 7. (236 sts)

Round 33: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to last 12 sts, RT, K 2, LT, K 6. (240 sts)

Round 35: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to last 7 sts, LT, K 5. (248 sts)

Round 37: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to last 6 sts, LT, K 4. (252 sts)

Round 39: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * three more times, K to end of round. (260 sts)

Round 41: *K to marker, m1r, sm, K 2, sm, K to next marker, sm, K 2, sm, m1l, rep from * once more, K to end of round. (264 sts)

Rounds 43-81: Rep rounds 39 and 41. (384 sts)

Round 83: K, slipping all markers.

Rep round 83 until work measures 14”/36cm from cast on edge of back neck.

All sizes - separate front, back, and sleeves:

Remove beginning of round marker. K to 1st marker of round, remove marker, K 1. Place next 56 (65, 72) sts [54 (63, 70) left sleeve sts plus 1 st from each raglan seamline] on holder or scrap yarn, removing markers. Place next 86 (102, 120) sts [84 (100, 118) back sts plus 1 st from each raglan seamline] on a second holder or scrap yarn, removing markers. Place next 56 (65, 72) sts [54 (63, 70) right sleeve sts plus 1 st from each raglan seamline] on a third holder or scrap yarn, removing markers. Remove last marker. There should be 86 (102, 120) sts on needles to work in back and forth rows for front of sweater.

Front:

Row 1: CO 5 (6, 7) sts for underarm, P to end of row. (91, 108, 127 sts)

Row 2 (RS): CO 5 (6, 7) sts for underarm, K to end of row. (96, 114, 134 sts)

Row 3: P.

Row 4: K.

Rep rows 3 and 4 until front measures 11.5”/29cm (10.5”/27cm, 9.5”/24cm) from underarm cast ons.

Change to 24”/60cm US 6 needles and work in K 1, P 1 rib for 2.5”/6cm.

Bind off using a tubular bind off.
 

Back:

Place 86 (102, 120) sts from back of sweater onto US 7 needles (either length). Rejoin yarn at beginning of WS row.

Row 1: CO 5 (6, 7) sts for underarm, P to end of row. (91, 108, 127 sts)

Row 2 (RS): CO 5 (6, 7) sts for underarm, K to end of row. (96, 114, 134 sts)

Row 3: P.

Row 4: K.

Rep rows 3 and 4 until back measures 11.5”/29cm (10.5”/27cm, 9.5”/24cm) from underarm cast ons.

Change to 24”/60cm US 6 needles and work in K 1, P 1 rib for 2.5”/6cm.

Bind off using a tubular bind off.

Sleeves:

Place 56 (65, 72) sts from one sleeve onto US 7 needles (either length). Rejoin yarn at beginning of RS row.

Row 1 (RS): CO 5 (6, 7) sts for underarm, K to end of row. (61, 71, 79 sts)

Row 2: CO 5 (6, 7) sts for underarm, P to end of row. (66, 77, 86 sts)

Row 3: K.

Row 4: P.

Rows 5-12: Rep rows 3 and 4.

Sizes XS/S and M/L only:

Row 13: K 2, SSK, K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K 2. (64, 75 sts)

Rows 14-20 (14-18): K all RS rows, P all WS rows.

Rows 21-84 (19-90): Rep rows 13-20 (13-18). (48, 51 sts)

Row 85 (91): Rep row 13. (46, 49 sts)

Next row: P.

Next row: K.

Rep last 2 rows until sleeve measures 15.5”/39cm (16”/41cm) from underarm cast ons.

Size XL/XXL only:

Row 13: K 2, SSK, K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K 2. (84 sts)

Rows 14-16: K all RS rows, P all WS rows.

Rows 17-28: Rep rows 13-16. (78 sts)

Row 29: K 2, SSK, K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K 2. (76 sts)

Rows 30-34: K all RS rows, P all WS rows.

Rows 35-94: Rep rows 29-34. (56 sts)

Row 95: Rep row 29. (54 sts)

Next row: P.

Next row: K.

Rep last 2 rows until sleeve measures 16.5”/42cm from underarm cast ons.

All sizes:

Change to 24”/60cm US 6 needles and work in K 1, P 1 rib for 2.5”/6cm.

Bind off using a tubular bind off.

Rep all steps for other sleeve.

Construction:

Starting above bottom ribbed edge to leave side slits, seam up each side to underarm and down under side of sleeve. Seam underarm cast ons from body to sleeves.

Secure and weave in all ends.

Neckband:

With 16”/40cm US 6 circular needles, and starting at front/right sleeve raglan shaping, pick up and knit 14 (15, 16) sts across top of right sleeve, 34 (36, 38) sts across back neck, 14 (15, 16) sts across top of left sleeve, 10 sts along left front neck shaping, 14 (16, 18) sts across center front, and 10 sts along right front neck shaping for a total of 96 (102, 108) sts.

Join for working in the round and place marker for beginning of round.

Work in K 1, P 1 rib for 3”/7.5cm.

Bind off loosely, fold neckband in, and sew to cast on edge.

Secure and weave in remaining ends.

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